Review-ul este in engleza, pentru ca a fost facut pentru site-ul de unde a venit sample-ul.
Replica este castigata de Tanku pe Facebook si mi-a fost facuta mie cadou. Multumiri multe pe aceasta cale The Legend:
The Mosin Nagant is part of what I like to call "The Rifle Trinity" (the other two being the Kar98 and the M1 Garand). Manufactured in the Soviet Union, Finland, China, Romania, the Mosin Nagant is known for its reliability and simplicity in both manufacturing and service. It has decent ballistics and accuracy and it was even used as a sniper rifle, with just small modifications.
She was nicknamed Mosinka and after more than 120 years she's still fighting! ***The airsoft rifleFirst Impressions
It arrived well packaged in a plain cardboard box, as a sample rifle. Sadly it was missing its spike bayonet.
After some examination, I have determined that this is a replica of a Model 1891/30 Mosin Nagant
It has the hooded front sight and flat rear sight (which is stamped in meters, not in arshinii, like the early Dragoon rifles), and a cylindrical receiver (as opposed to the older octagonal version).
The trademarks can be seen here, at the left of the picture, compared with original trademarks (on the right).
They denote it was produced in 1941, at Izhevsk, in the Soviet Union.
The trademarks are simply painted on, and if I were to nitpick, I'd love to see them etched, press-stamped or engraved in a future version.
I have to admit I was a little bit disappointed when I took it out of the box.
The rifle is a bit light, due to its plastic furniture. The fake metal rings surrounding the sling holes and the faux-wood furniture are made from plastic, coated in a cheap, golden, bright, shining paint. (They're called "stock escutcheons" and "handguard brass tabs", respectively). They're by far the worst-looking part on this rifle,
but that can be corrected with a bit of work.
The faux-wood furniture itself is not too bad.
Again, if I were to nitpick, the coloration is more similar to a Finnish Army rifle, rather than a Soviet Army one, but I admit it, I tend to be overly finical sometimes.
I compared the look of it with the faux-wood from an ASG Zastava Rifle.
The Mosin one looks a bit better, in my opinion, yet the plastic is a lot thinner than that on the Zastava, and as such, it is possible to twist it, especially the handguard.
However, I seriously do hope that this is just a temporary furniture set. This is a great rifle, even though we started a bit on the wrong foot here, and a decent real wood furniture would solve all the above!
The overall shape is a bit different from whatever airsoft rifles we've been using so far. It's a thin, slender, elegant rifle. A bit long, but nothing excessive. You can see it here compared with my customised ASG Zastava. (Yup, that is Olive Leather wrapped around it).
The Mosin somehow it feels more comfortable to my hands.Moving on. Functionality.
I wanted to fire it straight out of the box, so that I'll have a proper comparison base for later on.
I fiddled a bit with the loading system. It came without a proper manual, so I had to first understand the uncommon system. It's not overly complicated and it only took a couple of minutes.
First, you have to pop open the magazine bottom plate like so.
Then, using your thumb, roll the serrated wheel (you can only roll it in one direction). It will wind up a thin red cord on itself. The red cord is also a good visual indicator. If you see it, you still have some BBs left.
BBs tend to get stuck in the hinge of the bottom plate, or just near the hole where they should go. If you're not careful, and you try to close the bottom plate with a stuck BB you can easily snap it (the plate).
Finally, after you are done inserting BBs, close the bottom plate. That will release the spring-loaded serrated wheel and push the BBs towards the hop-up chamber.
Also, without a manual I wasn't able to tell which screw is used to adjust the hop-up, and even though I had a hunch, for now I just left it as it was.
In the end, I was right. The hop-up is adjusted using the Allen screw found in the middle of the 1941 markings. You can see it just a few pictures above.
Lifting and pulling back the bolt reveals the gas valve. It was missing that tiny gasket that prevents you from wasting gas while charging, but that can be easily replaced.
I fired 10 shots with 0.2 BBs and it chronoed between 110 and 118 MPS (that's 360 to 387 FPS). Admittedly, this is a bit low for a bolt-action rifle. Nowadays, most AEGs fire at those speeds and they can overpower you quickly with their full-auto capabilities.
It would be sad to see this used only as a display replica, and as such I'll do whatever I can to turn it into a fully playable airsoft gun.
But I digress.
The variation in power is quite significant, but that is to be expected from a gas rifle. Now that we know it works, it's time for a more in-depth examination.
So, in no particular order:
- The cleaning rod is full-size and made from a strong piece of metal wire, which is good, as it is properly reinforcing the faux-wood furniture.
- The Barrel Bands have tiny screws that hold the rod and the handguard in place. The steel barrel band springs, that on the real rifle hold the barrel bands in place, look properly convincing.
- The front sight needs a little work. It is extremely wobbly (the original Mosin sight had to be hammered to be adjusted). It's held in place just by the front "post" pin that just sort-of slides into its hole and can come off quite easily causing you to lose the front sight hood aswell!
It also does not allow the front sight to be blocked in any position, and as such, any adjustments you'd make are useless.
This can be fixed extremely easy. Just replace the front "post" with a thin threaded screw that can be tightened with a torx through the hole existent in the sight hood.
- The large screw and the nut on the opposite side, pass through the middle of the gun, they are called "stock recoil bolt and nut" and they look just like the real thing.
- The trigger guard and magazine assembly, the butt-plate, the trigger, the rear sight leaf and its corresponding leaf spring, the outer barrel, the receiver are all made of metal, they are well replicated and sturdy enough to withstand the rigors of many airsoft games.
- The magazine floor-plate is made from a soft material. It was a bit bent, and I only had to use two fingers to straighten it out. I'm sure it will break pretty fast.
It's easy to get it caught in your equipment and it will snap right off. Since it is required for the rifle to function and feed, this is a really bad thing. All this could be corrected if it would be stamped out of a thin steel sheet.
It’s locking mechanism could use some work too. The floor-plate is held closed by a "C"-shaped steel claw.
However, it's not doing its job properly. The floor-plate popped open many times when shooting or cocking the bolt. This can be fixed by making the "C"-shaped steel claw just two millimetres longer, and bending its grabbing edges a bit more, so that it properly holds the corresponding "nub" located on the floor-plate.
- The bolt itself looks quite awesome. Let there be noted that this is the standard straight bolt handle, which means that you will not be able to mount the traditional 4x PE or PEM scope, or the later used 3.5x PU scopes.
But if Simo Hayha did not need a scope, neither do you
- The bolt handle is machined from massive metal and it looks just like the real one. The ring-shape part with a spot of welding, the one you see between the bolt and the bolt handle, is a well-replicated firing-pin guide ring.
- The mushroom-shaped part you see at the back of the bolt is called "The Bolt Cocking Piece" and it's also well-replicated, sadly its functionality is a real mess.
On the airsoft replica, it is used to produce the proper sequencing (that click-click-click feeling) when cocking the rifle, via a spring and ball-bearing assembly.
However it miserably fails to do so.
When properly tightened, the bolt can't be moved.
When loosened a bit, the bolt can be cocked and it will work properly for about two or three shots. Afterwards, normal operation will unscrew the cocking piece so much it will lose its sequencing, then when returning the bolt it will fall by itself to the left or right and jam the weapon into "safe" mode, badly scratching the receiver, then eventually it will fall off completely. Not even industrial strength thread locking paste will help.
I have attached this cross-section diagram. The "A" diagram is the existing design. The "B" diagram is the one I'm suggesting.
As you can see in the A diagram, when tightening the screw, pressure and friction (marked with red) is applied in the wrong areas.
When you are lifting the bolt handle, the cocking piece remains stationary, being held in place by the receiver. This only leaves one possibility of movement between the bolt and the screw (in yellow) which causes said screw to loosen.
However, if we were to insert a hard steel spring between the screw and the cocking piece, this will allow the screw to freely twist, without influencing the cocking piece, and without loosening up.
The metal washer (or Teflon gasket, that will do just fine) here represented in blue, will further decrease the friction between the spring + cocking piece and the screw.
Oh well... Interior parts.
The disassembly is quite easy and pleasant. I won't go over it here in detail, it's pretty straightforward, and it will be thoroughly covered in my tips, tricks and tuning guide that will probably follow.
As soon as I opened the rifle I started to be more and more pleasantly surprised, and my opinion of it grew quite quickly.
-The only plastic part is the inner magazine mechanics. But that is ok. The plastic is quite dense, and being protected by the sturdy metal trigger guard+outer magazine assembly ... the magazine is quite safe.
-The rest is metal, most of it aluminium, which is tons better than the pot metal usually seen on airsoft replicas. The machining and finishing is quite flawless, all parts fit together well and are secured in place with torx screws that are everywhere they're needed. (Also, a word of warning: When taking the rifle apart, be careful and put all your screws in a small cup, or something. Almost all of them are short headless torx screws that are almost impossible to find once dropped on the floor or in the carpet)
-Amazingly enough, the inner barrel and the hop-up rubber are standard AEG, which means there you have a wide range of hop-up bucking to choose from.
-The hop-up chamber is simple, sturdy and functional. I'm willing to say that it follows the true Soviet Union spirit. It is probably one of the best chambers I've seen.
-The hop-up lever, unlike the ones used in other bolt rifles, requires a standard AEG nub, which is great news, this will allow you to further tune your rifle.
-The inner barrel, I can't tell if it's a tight bore one, I can't really measure it, but by comparing it with a precision barrel, I'd say it's not. Probably a 6.08 at best.
I'd really like to see a 6.03 barrel on this one as a stock option.
-The length of the inner barrel, wow, a whopping 670mm, is bound to add some nice accuracy to it, however this probably means a fully custom barrel. As far as I know, there are no AEG barrels of this length.
-There were rubber spacers already installed on the inner barrel, just some rubber O-rings glued here and there, but they do their job properly.
Compared with other low-budget rifles, this one is a masterpiece!
The gas system, eh, it's similar with what I've seen on old UHC USR11 rifles (some VSR10 gas clones). It's far from being extraordinary, it's quite inconsistent due to its design, but for a gun that stores its gas in the bolt, not in the magazine, there's no other good option, as far as I know.
What it is:
-If you want a famous rifle, for WW2 role-play, for reenactment, or for post-apocalyptic scenarios, this is a very good option.
-It still has some bugs, I'm hoping they will be corrected in the final version, and if not, most of them can be patched without the need for advanced tools, and none of them is gun-breaking. Nevertheless, it looks like a rather low-maintenance rifle. Simple to use, simple to maintain, just like its real sister.
-It needs a wood kit, be it standard or home-made, this is one of those rifles which is 98% wood outside. Good internals are shadowed by average plastic, and it's a shame. But with a proper wood-kit it is a stunningly beautiful rifle.
-It is an infantry rifle. Its low power probably won't outclass even the average AEG out there, but with some sneaky tactics it's quite possible to play with this one.
What it isn't:
-A fully upgraded BAR10/VSR10 rifle.
-An airsoft SNIPER rifle. No, you won't outrange AEG rifles, sadly.
-An all-purpose, all-weather rifle. It's a green gas rifle, and you know what this means. Low consistency, and poor performance as soon as it gets a bit cold outside. Or NO performance during the winter.
Overall, I feel that this rifle is a beautiful addition to the already growing Airsoft market, and it's good to know that we have one more classic legend to play with.
I can't wait to see where this project goes.
Nikky.Mosin Nagant Review Part II
I was wrong
I know I said in my review that this gun does not have any "gun-breaking bugs".
Now, after, let's say 200 BBs fired, I am sad to report that it does. The main culprit: the gas valve is destroying its O-rings after just a few shots.
Let me draw you something. The Gas Bolt diagram.
The Gas Cylinder (in black) is floating inside the Bolt cylinder. When you cock the gun, the (blue) Striker compresses its spring and gets caught in the Striker Sear.
When you pull the trigger, the Striker is released from the Striker Sear and hits the floating Gas Cylinder, moving it forward through the Bolt Cylinder, and squashing it against the (red) nozzle, which releases a gas valve, inside the gas cylinder.
I've said how gas rifles operating on this system are rather inconsistent.
The main inconsistency of the gun comes from this "bolt-in-bolt" system. There are a lot of variables:
-The Striker rarely hits with the same force,
-The (black) Gas Cylinder has to slide through the (green) Bolt Cylinder, and sadly both of them have very rough surfaces, with machine-tool markings,
-All of the above still has to overcome the force of the spring-loaded gas valve.
-The gas pressure inside is naturally decreasing with each shot.
Many of these can't be helped, this is how gas systems do work, however, redesigning the gas valve and buffing the outside of the gas cylinder and the inside of the bolt cylinder to a smooth surface, would greatly help.
But that is nothing.
The system has one major breaking bug: the above gas valve is chewing through its O-ring in less than 100 BBs
Below the diagram, you can see the gas valve system taken apart, and let's zoom in a bit more.
Now we can see that the (red) nozzle is part of the gas valve. I haven't managed to take them apart further, even though they should. The nozzle is made of brass, while the valve itself must be iron. So they should disassemble further.
On this whole thing sits a black O-ring, and this is where the system is malfunctioning.
The (bronze) Gas Valve Endcap pushes on the nozzle/valve combo with a spring. The spring itself was poorly cut from a longer spring, and only had one end straightened out. The other end was not properly finished and it was pushing on the valve at an odd angle. But nevermind that.
Look at the gas flow. The green arrow shows what the gas flow should be. However, some gas is lost between the nozzle/valve and the Gas Cylinder ENDCAP. As indicated, a simple O-ring placed on the nozzle/valve would solve that problem.
Now let's look at that infamous valve. Zoom in.
In the part A of this picture you can see that where it should have been the O-ring "seat" there is nothing. The O-ring is pushing HARD on a flat surface and getting crushed in there. The valve spring practically tries to squeeze the O-ring into the hole, between the nozzle and its "seat" and the O-ring gets cut to shreds in just a few shots.
All that had to be done, was a conical "seating" for the O-ring. With minimal effort, just like I did in part B of the picture.
This way the O-ring is cushioned inside the conical hole, and won't get damaged.
I would love to fix that myself, it's not a big deal, but for that I have to separate the valve head from the nozzle, and I don't know how! I tried unscrewing it in both directions, I tried pulling, nothing seems to help and I don't want to break it by twisting the wrong way.
And as such, I'm stuck with a hopeless broken rifle.
Which is very sad.
I really want an answer to that.